Day Trip to Andechs: Day 9

Friday, September 11th

Today we're taking day trip to Andechs, a small town southwest of Munich. Since I have already visited Neuschwanstein Castle (built by Lugwig II in 1868 and inspiration for Disney's Cinderella Castle), I decided that a different, but equally as enjoyable day trip would be in order. In addition to absorbing the spectacular views of the Alps, the main reason for our visit is to experience Andechs Monastery. The Benedictine abbey is situated on the Holy Mountain near the Amersee in Bavaria's five lakes region and according to one of my guides, "Come [to Andechs] ready to eat tender chunks of pork, huge pretzels, spiraled white radishes, savory sauerkraut, and Andecher monk-made beer that would almost make celibacy tolerable." I'm sold. We will take a train to Herrshing and then take a 3-mile hike to Andechs. Don't worry, there's a bus route too if we don't feel like making the trek back to the train station. There's not much to do other than explore the cathedral and brewery, sit at the cafe and enjoy delicious food, and drink some of the best beer in Germany.

As for Andechs' history, an unverifiable source claims that between 880 and 940 AD, an ancestor of the Count of Andechs returned from the holy land with sacred relics for the castle chapel. However, the name "Andechs" doesn't appear in historical documents until 1080. The first documented pilgrimage to the chapel at Andechs Castle isn't until 1128, which also coincides with Count Bertold II requiring the most pious under his governance make an annual pilgrimage.

Scandal first hits Andechs in 1208 when King Philip II of Swabia is murdered by Otto of Wittlesbach -- members of the House of Andechs are implicated for complicity in the murder, but were later acquitted and "rehabilitated". The Andechs clan tore down the original castle and moved their things up the road (presumably to escape humiliation). In 1423, Duke Ernest I initiates construction of a gothic cathedral. He deems the hill on which the cathedral rests "Heiliger Berg" (Holy Mountain) and the Benedictine church is once again a spot for pilgrimages.

Shortly before his death in 1438, Duke Ernest erects a convent for priests, which is where this part of the story gets good. His successor, Duke Albrecht III establishes the Andechts Benedictine Monastery in 1455. Let the brewing begin! Basically, the rest is a familiar history shared with many buildings in Germany: lightning strikes, building burns down and is rebuilt; gothic is totally out, cathedral is remodeled in Rococo style; new ownership, liquidation sale, beer making carries on, albeit under new name; post-war inhabitants see err of their ways and restore, restore, restore.