Last Day in September

In honor of the cold weather, I fired up the oven for the first time in a very long time. With temperatures hovering in the 80s and 90s most of the summer, the appliance had been allowed a very long hibernation period. I will try to make up for the baking dry spell over the next few weeks. While Katie was here, I made bagels from the Bread Baker's Apprentice, which were just as successful as the first and second batches. Since I raved about the book so much when my parents were visiting, my Mom picked it up as a surprise one afternoon as she was browsing through Powell's. I plan on trying to make all of the recipes at some point.

After dropping off my sister at the airport yesterday morning at 5am, I cracked open the book and got started on a batch of cinnamon rolls. They are probably the prettiest cinnamon buns that I've ever made and were very tasty. I started out with the basic recipe this time, but I think the next batch will include some dried fruit, orange zest, nuts, and honey. The whole process took about 5 hours, including mixing, proofing and baking. However, I learned that the initial steps can be done ahead and left in the refrigerator overnight before baking. I'll definitely take advantage of that next time!

I also made a batch of red beans and rice, which I thoroughly enjoyed for dinner last night (and breakfast this morning). After traveling and eating out for most of September, I'm excited to have time again to cook and experiment in the kitchen. I'm taking another class at PSU in Public Administration, which starts tonight. However, it only meets once a week, so I think it will be a lot more manageable than the summer course that demanded all of my time in July and August!

Welcome Back Fall

Today seemed to be the quintessential fall day in Portland -- gray, cool, and rainy. It was a perfect day to lounge around the apartment, dreaming of good (warm) things to cook. My absence from the blog over the past week has been due almost entirely to the fact that my sister was in town visiting. I had such a nice time having her around that I forgot entirely about updating. Thankfully, I didn't forget to take photos!

The week was packed full of things that I felt were essential to getting to know "my" Portland. We went out to Fabric Depot to hunt for new project fabric and found inspiration for a Halloween costume. On our way home, we stopped by Burgerville, the local fast food joint that serves up very tasty burgers and sandwiches (and sweet potato fries). Friday was very sunny and warm, if a little hazy, so we drove up to the Pittock Mansion for one of the best views of Mt. Hood. Before heading out for our excursion, we stopped at Kenny & Zukes on NW Thurman for tasty sandwiches.

After the Pittock Mansion, we stopped to smell the flowers at the International Rose Test Garden. The sun was perfect and Katie got a lot of great shots of the final blooms for the season. On the agenda, of course, was one of our favorite happy hour spots, Bridgeport Brewery. Most every evening was ended with a round or two of games, so I was in heaven.

While it was tempting to sleep in and lounge around most days, we got up early and out the door for a full day of bike riding on Saturday. After renting a bike for Katie, we rode around town on a 17.5 mile tour. One of our stops was at Stumptown Coffee where our good friend, Brian, gave us a tour. Then, we had an outstanding lunch at Por Que No. Between the bike ride, Mexican food, and tasty margaritas that we made in the evening, Katie said that she'd never slept better!

Overall it was an awesome week and I hope she comes back soon!

European Road Food Part 2: A Photo Essay

My first post took us through the first half of Belgium and Berlin. Now, on to Bavaria and our last few days in Belgium.


Lunch at Augustiner Keller in Munich was probably one of my favorite meals. We each had an Augustiner Edelstoff, a helles lager, mine in a 1/2 liter glass, Jesse's in the full-on Mass. We each ordered sausage, little pork sausages are in the back with sauerkraut, and in the foreground are the käsekraner (cheese sausages) with potato salad. First of all, the potato salad and sauerkraut were life altering. They may look sort of blob-ish in this photo, but were the best tasting sides I've ever had. Secondly, if you've ever read my blog, you know that I love Corralitos sausages, particularly their Cheesy Bavarian. Well, folks, this is the original Cheesy Bavarian and Corralitos is pretty dead on.


We actually ate quite a few pastries along the way, most of which I never bothered to photograph. Overall, the sweets were quite good in both Belgium and Germany, even ones from chains or mediocre train station kiosks were well above average. This one in particular from the Hofpfisterei in Munich's main train station, called Mohnstreusel, was outstanding. The dough reminded me of a king cake, sort of yeasty and only slightly sweet, with a lightly sweet poppy seed paste rolled in the middle, and a sweet crumb topping.

The trip to Kloster Andechs (monastery) just outside of Munich was amazing on so many levels. The hike out to the monastery was refreshing, the chapel was breath-taking, and the food and beer were top notch. We shared a pork knuckle that seemed almost as big as my head and each had two 1/2 liters of beer. I started out with the Andecher Weissbier Helles (a wheat beer) and Jesse jumped right into the Doppelbock Dunkel (a darker beer). We both enjoyed the Dunkel so much that we each got another. It was probably my favorite beer in Germany.

In Regensburg, we stopped at Spital Brewery for a snack and tasty beverage. I was sad that they didn't have pretzels, so we ordered (what I thought was a fresh cheese dip with veggies). As it turns out, the bell peppers were more of a facilitator to the pound of cream cheese stuffed inside. I didn't complain, it was very good fresh cream cheese, although I thought Jesse and I might fight over the lettuce and tomato garnish. By this point in the trip we craved vegetables.


That night we had dinner in the apartment rented for the night. We picked up a cucumber, fresh bread, cheese, and pickled vegetables for a light meal. It was accompanied by two local beers, Wettenburger Kloster Barock Dunkel and Bischofshof Hefeweisbier Dunkel that only cost €.80 each. I love local beer! We found that the hefe went really well with the cheese.

This meal in Bamberg was the straw that broke the camel's back (or my stomach). We rolled into Bamburg hungry and sleepy and headed straight for Spezial Brewery for lunch. Don't get me wrong, it was delicious, but the roast wild rabbit in a delicious gravy with a giant knödel (a potato dumpling) and cooked red cabbage was quite a lot of food to handle at lunchtime. Jesse had a pork roast that also came a dumpling and creamed broccoli. As if the food wasn't enough to knock us down for the afternoon, we washed it back with a 1/2 liter of beer (apparently the smallest glass you can obtain in Bavaria). Jesse got Spezial's specialty, the Rauchbier (smoke beer), and I got a Märzen. The food and drink filled my stomach, legs, and eyelids with sand. We both dragged ourselves around town for the rest of the day. I was officially over German food.


On our long train ride (around 10 hours of traveling) back to Belgium, we had a 2-hour layover in Köln. It was insanely cold there and I really didn't want to have anymore beer for the rest of my life, but we pressed on and found a cafe to try a kölsch -- a local specialty. Thankfully the cafe, Früh am Dom, only poured their kölsch in .2 liter glasses. It was the perfect amount for the hour (just a few minutes after 11am).


Our final destination, Ghent, Belgium was all about relaxation. For two nights we made our own dinner at the B&B, which consisted of a ton of fresh salad greens, fresh bread, cheese, and of course, beer. Kasteel (shown in the photo) was actually one of my least favorites of the trip. It was pretty high-octane at 11% abv, but syrupy sweet to the point of almost being nauseating.

Belgium smelled like waffles (and sometime sewers, but mostly waffles). It's a sweet, buttery, delicious smell and I couldn't get enough. We got waffles from a vendor in Ghent and they were probably the most spectacular waffles that I've ever tasted, or will ever taste again. They're not airy like American waffles, but a dense, slightly sweet, brioche type dough. It's cooked in the waffle iron with sugar on the outside that slightly burns and crisps. With the hazelnut chocolate sauce, I could have died happy right there.


The last night in Ghent, we went out with a bang by ordering mussels cooked in white wine. Prior to the mussels, we shared an order of shrimp croquettes and another abbey ale. I learned the next morning that 1/2 an appetizer and mussels does not a dinner make, especially when paired with stark Belgian brews. At breakfast my head and stomach were telling me that I might have chugged a glass full of gasoline, rather than that Duvel with our meal. It was a wonderful trip, but I knew right then that I was ready to go home.

European Road Food Part 1: A Photo Essay

As I sit at my kitchen table with the window open, the delicious smell of cooking bacon keeps drifting in and out of the apartment. Voila! The first category for my photo posts from the trip: Food. This is probably the best place to start, since an overarching theme during our 2-week trip to Germany and Belgium was food and beer. The main point of our trip (in addition to seeing incredible places) was to sample the wide range of fares that the two countries had to offer.

We stopped in a French cafe that appeared to specialize in tarts, both sweet and savory. Mine was leek and salmon and Jesse's was mushroom and tomato. We each had a Trappist beer with our lunch. I chose the Westmalle Tripel and Jesse's was Rochefort 10, each packing a punch at 9.5% and 11.3% abv. We quickly learned, however, that a beer (especially those potent ones) at lunch made for a very sleepy afternoon.

We only went on one brewery tour, which happened to be at our first stop in Brussels. Cantillon brewery is located on the west side of town, in a bit of a transitional neighborhood, but was well worth the trip. It has been owned and run by the Van Roy-Cantillon family since 1900 and it shows. The pride in their product and process was inescapable throughout our entire visit, especially with the care and detail with which they described the beer as "acidic" not "bitter." After the tour we tasted two of their beers, the Gueuze and Kriek. Both were dry, sour, and definitely not sweet like other Kriek beers. It is definitely a beverage that you would sip on a special occasion, not unlike a very dry champagne. Before returning home, we purchased a bottle of their Lou Peppe Framboise that we'll hold on to for our next anniversary. I kind of like the idea of celebrating with beer instead of wine.

In Bruges, we wanted to experience authentic Flemish cuisine, so we went to a restaurant that came highly recommended by the hostess at our guesthouse. We arrived at 5pm, which according to the front door was the time they opened for dinner, but the owner quickly assured us that they didn't actually open until 6pm. We returned an hour later and were lucky enough to find a table, as nearly the entire restaurant was booked for the evening. I ordered the Waterzooi (a chicken stew with potatoes) and Jesse ordered the beef stew (I can't remember the Dutch name). His came with a baked potato with curried butter melting inside. It was the most fantastic thing I've tasted in a while. We told the owner how much we loved the beef stew and he hustled down to the kitchen to provide us with a recipe! As soon as the weather cools down, I'm going to try and replicate the meal.

After our delicious (and filling) Flemish meal, we walked around Bruges as the sun went down and I took a few night photos. Then, we ended up at Brugs Beertje, a bar that was recommended in our Good Beer Guide Belgium. The atmosphere was relaxed and I was kind of envious of the people who had brought games like cards and Pass the Pigs to play while sipping their beer. Jesse and I sampled two more Trappist ales, the Achel Blonde and Bruin. I love Trappist beers, so I had no complaints other than the fact that I wanted to pass out from the full beer and meal.

This was our first breakfast in Berlin and pretty much summed up our breakfasts for the remainder of the trip. I was in heaven. When given the option of sweet or savory for breakfast, I always choose the latter. In fact, the best breakfast in my book is last night's leftovers with an egg on top. So, bread, cured meats, cheese, butter, tomatoes and pickles was a-okay with me!

This was breakfast the second day in Berlin. We had a lot of sandwiches in Germany, but they were consistently delicious whether they had egg and cucumber, or just a variety of cheeses, or curried chicken. I know this photo is a little out of focus, but look at that bread! The bread in Germany was out of this world. Even in Portland, where we have fabulous bakeries, you just can't get rolls of this caliber. Also, schnitzel for breakfast is divine.

Snacks were essential. Our best days incorporated snacks. This was a break in the Tiergarten in Berlin. We purchased the melba toast and cheese called Partykaas (which roughly translated into "party cheese") in Belgium for the plane ride to Germany. I loved the idea of party cheese so much that we even had a little Partykaas dance when I would reach into the backpack. Also, Kinder chocolates are delicious -- Bueno was a big hit.


On the last night in Berlin, we finally got Döners. I think the picture speaks more to their deliciousness than I ever could.

That pretty much sums up the first few days of our trip. More to come tomorrow in European Road Food Part 2!

In Ghent: Days 13-15

Tuesday, September 15th - Thursday, September 17th

We're back in the U.S. now, but I thought I'd finish up my posts with a few notes about the last days of our trip and post my own photos for a change.

We arrived in Ghent on Monday afternoon, took an unplanned tour of the northwest side of the city and arrived at our B&B just in time for dinner. Both starving and exhausted from the 10-hour travel day, we ended up at a restaurant in one of the town squares that was frequented by tourists, no doubt, and a surprising number of old people. The food was good, if a little overpriced, but at that point I was ready to gnaw off my own arm. The rest of the stay was all about relaxation and preparing for the long haul home.The owner of the B&B where we stayed was a bit shocked to learn that we were going to spend three whole days in the city -- reinforcing an overarching self-deprecating trend of many locals that we met in Ghent (and maybe all Belgians?). I'm not sure why, the city is quite lovely and actually was one of my favorite spots.

One of the goals we set while in Ghent (and for most of the trip actually) was to never try the same beer twice, to maximize the tasting variety. We actually did a pretty good job at sticking to that rule, I think I only drank one Belgian beer twice, Duvel, because it is so delicious and cheap compared to the price in the US (about $2 a bottle). To taste as many beers as possible, as inexpensively as possible, we went to a local grocery store and had our own happy hour at the B&B each night (or afternoon). Here are the beers from our last few days in order from favorite (on the right) to least favorite (on the left). I think I will have Jesse guest post one day this week on the specifics, as he was the designated beer note taker for the trip.

One of the highlights in Ghent was our visit to Granvensteen Castle, just a 10 minute walk from where we were staying. It's an amazing building from the 12th century that served as the town center in the middle ages. It seems as thought it's been in a constant cycle of restoration/reconstruction since the late 1800s, when the first attempts at restoration began. What stands now is a combination of original and reconstructed areas that is quite fascinating.

Ghent also has a canal that runs through the city, which is lined with old buildings that were once main spots for commerce. Today, they're mostly restaurants, hotels, and gathering spots. This is one of my favorite shots from Ghent, taken on the first night we were there just as the sun started to go down.

In the old market place the city was undertaking a giant archaeological dig. There wasn't a lot of explanation in English about the reason for the clearance of the old (rather mundane) 19th century commercial buildings, but it seemed as though they are going to eventually restore the old market place. It was pretty awesome to watch the dig taking place everyday as we walked from our B&B to the center of town.

Our second wedding anniversary happened to fall on our second night in Ghent, September 15th. After visiting the castle, we made dinner at the B&B and sampled a couple of new beers. After dinner, we decided that we needed to take a strong stand and go out and grab dessert or a beer just to stay awake. It was pretty easy to pass out at 8pm after a long day of walking or biking, but that meant we'd be awake before the sun the following morning. I was able to get a lot of really great night shots of the landmarks around town. Here are a couple from the group:

This was one of my favorite buildings in all of Ghent, just on the edge of the main marketplace. It has a hideous addition on the left side, but I was easily able to overlook it due to the awesome dancing statues on top.


I can't remember exactly which buildings are in this photo, but the canal was so still that night it reflected their likeness perfectly. I have to say that this anniversary may top all others for quite a while.

After looking through all of the photos that we took from the trip, I feel as though we gave ourselves a pretty spectacular gift of almost 800 potential postcards filled with memories. I'll post more photos over the next few days, most likely grouped in some way, either by city or some other form of category. Jet lag has sort of muddled my organizing capacity, so I have yet to decide how to present them!

Train from Germany to Belgium: Day 12

Monday, September 14th

Today's trip from Germany to Belgium was rather uneventful, but long. We were on a total of 5 trains, one bus, and one tram. We arrived in Ghent with ease (if a little hunger) and then all hell broke loose.

It seems as though Belgium has a jolly old time totally spleening tourists and non-locals with their lack of signage on roads (and in the case of Ghent, their public transit). It is so confusing, in fact, that two different employees instructed us to take a bus that was going in the exact opposite directon of our hotel. When I showed the bus driver the name of our street he said, "yes we stop there." To confirm, I asked, "which stop," and he replied, "I don't know, I'll tell you when to get off."

Well, he dumped us in the middle of northwest suburban Ghent, approximately 3 miles away from our destination. For all of it's messed up signage and crazy drivers, Ghent has a lot of really nice people. Two individuals went out of their way to stop and help us. It reminded me of why I wanted to travel around in the first place.

It will also hopefully remind me to have patience with visitors in the future, as we relied greatly today on the kindness (and proficient English) of others.

Bamberg: Day 11

Sunday, September 13th

Something happened yesterday that I didn't think possible -- we hit the beer wall (so to speak). Bamberg was lovely to explore, but after a filling lunch of stewed wild rabbit, giant potato dumpling, and red cabbage kraut (accompanied by a half liter of dark beer) I was officially over German food and drink.

When dinner time rolled around, we were so desperate for vegetables (or anything not stuffed in a casing) that we stopped in an Italian cafe that promised homemade noodles. I had a fettucine dish with fresh tomatoes, zucchini, white fish, and pine nuts. It was really amazing and I have plans to try and replicate it when we're back home. It also left me full, but not like I had consumed two fists of lead. Don't get me wrong, I've enjoyed every minute of our time in Germany. However, we're going to need major food detox when back in Portland.

Regensburg: Day 10

Saturday, September 12

I ran out of time before leaving home, so the detailed travel blog ends here (for now). We had a great day in Regensburg and feasted on local cheese, bread, and beer for dinner at the apartment we rented for the night.

Tonight I hope to walk around town at dusk and take a few more photos -- our Gorillapod tripod has gotten quite a workout on this trip!

We are off to Bamberg tomorrow and on Monday will make the long trip back to Belgium. There we will spend our last three nights in Ghent. Overall, Germany has rocked. Especially Berlin.

Day Trip to Andechs: Day 9

Friday, September 11th

Today we're taking day trip to Andechs, a small town southwest of Munich. Since I have already visited Neuschwanstein Castle (built by Lugwig II in 1868 and inspiration for Disney's Cinderella Castle), I decided that a different, but equally as enjoyable day trip would be in order. In addition to absorbing the spectacular views of the Alps, the main reason for our visit is to experience Andechs Monastery. The Benedictine abbey is situated on the Holy Mountain near the Amersee in Bavaria's five lakes region and according to one of my guides, "Come [to Andechs] ready to eat tender chunks of pork, huge pretzels, spiraled white radishes, savory sauerkraut, and Andecher monk-made beer that would almost make celibacy tolerable." I'm sold. We will take a train to Herrshing and then take a 3-mile hike to Andechs. Don't worry, there's a bus route too if we don't feel like making the trek back to the train station. There's not much to do other than explore the cathedral and brewery, sit at the cafe and enjoy delicious food, and drink some of the best beer in Germany.

As for Andechs' history, an unverifiable source claims that between 880 and 940 AD, an ancestor of the Count of Andechs returned from the holy land with sacred relics for the castle chapel. However, the name "Andechs" doesn't appear in historical documents until 1080. The first documented pilgrimage to the chapel at Andechs Castle isn't until 1128, which also coincides with Count Bertold II requiring the most pious under his governance make an annual pilgrimage.

Scandal first hits Andechs in 1208 when King Philip II of Swabia is murdered by Otto of Wittlesbach -- members of the House of Andechs are implicated for complicity in the murder, but were later acquitted and "rehabilitated". The Andechs clan tore down the original castle and moved their things up the road (presumably to escape humiliation). In 1423, Duke Ernest I initiates construction of a gothic cathedral. He deems the hill on which the cathedral rests "Heiliger Berg" (Holy Mountain) and the Benedictine church is once again a spot for pilgrimages.

Shortly before his death in 1438, Duke Ernest erects a convent for priests, which is where this part of the story gets good. His successor, Duke Albrecht III establishes the Andechts Benedictine Monastery in 1455. Let the brewing begin! Basically, the rest is a familiar history shared with many buildings in Germany: lightning strikes, building burns down and is rebuilt; gothic is totally out, cathedral is remodeled in Rococo style; new ownership, liquidation sale, beer making carries on, albeit under new name; post-war inhabitants see err of their ways and restore, restore, restore.

Munich: Day 8

Thursday, September 10th

Today we had a late morning flight from Berlin to Munich and will spend the afternoon exploring the areas immediately surrounding our hotel. Luckily, I found a well-regarded Pension right in the middle of things and can't wait to take it slow after our activity-driven week in Brussels, Bruges, and Berlin.

Munich was sort of a late bloomer in terms of German city standards, as it was founded at the late date of 1158 by a powerful Saxon duke. The duke, Guelph Henry the Lionheart, built a bridge over the river Isar to Munich, which at the time was inhabited only by a group of Benedictine monks. I guess not enough people were using (and paying tolls on) his bridge, so Henry destroyed a nearby crossing in Freising to force traders into Munich. While his plans were very effective, it proved to be political suicide. The Lionhearted Henry was put on trial and in 1180, Otto Wittelsbachs became duke of Bavaria -- the Wittlesbachs continued to rule Bavaria 1918. Between 1330 and 1430, two devastating fires burned down all (or significant parts of) the city that were eventually rebuilt.

In 1506, Munich became the capital of united Bavaria dukedom and remained a relatively modest town. Through a complicated European history and line of ownership, Napoleon granted Munich's expansion as a royal capital in the 19th century with planned boulevards and squares. Munich flourished during this time, acquiring a railway, electricity, and the Technical University. It was also one of the largest continental European cities at the time. World War I and II proved to be rough on Munich, and large portions were damaged by air raids. Following the American occupation in 1945, Munich was meticulously rebuilt, preserving it's pre-war street plan and appearance. Unfortunately, none of the guides I've read have elaborated on exactly which parts are new vs. old. Our itinerary for Munich on Thursday is somewhat flexible and we'll likely stay around town:

Marienplaz and the Glockenspiel: Since its inception, the Marienplatz (a city square) has been the center and heart of Munich with open markets and tournaments in the Middle Ages. Today, the square is dominated by the Neues Rathaus (new City Hall) that was built in 1867. Atop the Rathaus's tower is the Glockenspiel that depicts two historical events in the city: the marriage of Wilhelm V to Renata von Lothringen in 1568 and the first Schäfflertnz (cooper's dance) in 1517 to cheer people up during the plague. The Glockenspiel plays at 11am and 12pm to a crowded square of tourists. I plan on being one of those tourists.

Various Churches in the Altstadt: One thing that I will probably not say when I return from this trip,"I just don't think we saw enough churches." In Munich, our choices include: Peterskirche, which was originally built in 1180, but reconstructed multiple times; the Frauenkirche was constructed between 1468 and 1488 (with the domes constructed in 1525 and modeled on the Dome of the Rock) received a final restoration in 1994 to repair residual damage from WWII; Michaelskirche (pictured here), which was constructed between 1583 and 1597, holds the tombs of the Wittelsbach dynasty and Ludwig II in the crypt; the Theatinerkirche (built in the 1660s); and Ludwigskirche (named after Ludwig II), which is one of Germany's most significant 19th-century churches.

Beer Halls and Gardens: Our most likely course for the day will involve seeing the historic Altstadt one beer at a time. Germany has strict standards (Reinheitsgebot) through beer purity laws established in 1516 by Duke Wilhelm IV. While primarily concerned with fixing beer prices he altered the course of beer-making history by stating that German beer should consist of only three ingredients: hops, barley malt, and water. Specialty beers such as Weizen (wheat beer) are allowed to be brewed with alternative grains.

Berlin Bound: Days 5-7

Monday, September 7th - Wednesday, September 9th

Today we took a train from Bruges straight to Brussels airport for a quick 1.5-hour flight to Berlin. When weighing the options for efficiency, flying outweighed traveling by train in both cost and time. We'll arrive in Berlin just before dinner time and should be in our hostel by dark. As I mentioned earlier, I looked into a few places to stay in the central (Mitte) section of Berlin, but they didn't seem quite right. Also, hotels are pretty expensive, so hostels were our only logical option. Luckily, there is an extensive network of really nice hostels, in fact, I'm not sure why they wouldn't be suited for just about anyone.

I don't think I need to drone on about Berlin's history, as just about anyone who reads this blog was alive when the Berlin wall came down. At the time, I was only in elementary school, but it left a lasting impression and riddled my young mind with questions like, "How exactly do they open that iron (shower) curtain?" Anyway, we're staying in Prenzlauer Berg, which was part of the former GDR (East Germany) and bordered by the Berlin Wall. It's only about an 8-minute walk from the infamous Checkpoint Charlie and according to my guide books, is one of the only places where the atmosphere of pre-war Berlin has been preserved. The budget-conscious GDR was more likely to restore than rebuild, so in certain areas there are pockets of 19th century buildings that once covered the entire city. That coupled with the collection of Stalinist housing blocks along Karl Marx Allee is going to be quite a sight -- architecturally and historically, I can't wait to soak it all in.

We carefully planned on having three nights and two full days to ensure an adequate amount of time to experience the city. I'm still not sure if that will be enough, but it'll have to do. Bike riding is definitely in the plan, perhaps even a bike tour. I'm pretty excited to see the way that other cities designate bike paths and lanes. I don't know if we'll make it out to Potsdam, since there are so many things within Berlin that I want to see and experience:

Brandenburger Tor: The Brandenburg Gate was built in 1791 and modeled after the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens. It straddles the grand boulevard, Unter den Linden, which led to the Berliner Stadtschloss (city palace) of the Prussian monarchs. At one time, only royalty were allowed to pass underneath. An interesting factoid about the sculpture on top: In 1806 the French defeated the Prussians in the battle of Jena-Auerstedt, at which time Napoleon took the Quadriga, the horse-drawn chariot sculpture driven by Victoria (Roman goddess of Victory) back to Paris. Just a few years later, the Prussians kicked French butt, defeating Napoleon and occupying Paris. The Quadriga was returned to Berlin and an iron cross (a Prussian military decoration) was added to Victoria's oak leaf wreath overhead.

The gate's more modern (darker) history places it as a favored rallying point for Nazi marches. During the construction of the Berlin Wall, the gate was located in the Eastern sector. Nearby observation points were popular for visiting politicians to look over the Iron Curtain -- such as John F. Kennedy's famous 1963 visit in which he stood on the balcony of the Rathaus Schöneberg (after peering over the wall from an observation point on the west) and delivered an impassioned speech proclaiming, "Ich bin ein Berliner" (I'm a jelly doughnut). All jokes aside, it's a pretty powerful and beautiful place.

The Reichstag: The building was constructed in 1894 for the first German parliament and served as a government building until it was severely damaged by fire in 1933. It's amazing to me that there are so many instances of European buildings standing in ruins for literally decades and somehow finding a rebirth. The photo to the left is the Reichstag in shambles after the bombing of Berlin. Graffiti and smoky walls can still be seen inside the building, as parts of the ruins were preserved during the near-decade-long reconstruction. After the unification of Germany in 1990, Norman Foster was selected to undertake the reconstruction and the new Reichstag reopened in 1999 for the first modern German parliament. I visited the building shortly after it was finished and was amazed. The central glass dome has a 360º view of Berlin and the mirrors radiate natural sunlight on the parliament floor below.

East Side Gallery and Berlin Wall Memorial: It's hard to imagine a giant wall dividing a country, especially one that took such a circuitous path. Weather, graffiti, and vandalism (people hacking off chunks no doubt) threatened to destroy the wall in the years after reunification. In 2000, a non-profit artists group began restoring sections of the wall. However, restoration may not be entirely accurate, as some of the paintings were completely removed and repainted. A few of the original artists have refused to participate in the endeavor, preferring that their works be left in situ rather than repaired or completely redone.

KaDeWe (kah-dey-vey): The Kaufhaus Des Westens (The Department Store of the West) opened in 1907 and is not only the largest department store in Europe, it was the most amazing thing I had encountered as a 17-year-old. With six cafes and bars, an entire gourmet food floor, the largest toy shop I'd seen (aside from FAO Schwartz in NYC), and an entire floor of fabric and art supplies, I was smitten. I could have lived in KaDeWe for my entire week-long stay. Naturally, I ventured out to other places, but frequented the cafes and chocolate sections. I can't wait to do it all over again, perhaps honing in this time on the cheese section.

Berliner Weisse: This beer is not regarded as Germany's best, but certainly one of the most unusual. It's a top-fermented "young" beer that tends to be quite sour and not very high in alcoholic content. Some argue that the beer is best served without the Schuss (fruit syrup), which comes in red or green. Order "mit rot" and you'll get raspberry (apparently quite tasty with breakfast). Order "mit grün" and you'll get woodruff, which in high doses can cause vertigo, headaches, and comas, so it's been banned for use in beverages in Germany since 1981 -- artificial flavorings now simulate the woodruff (cough syrup) taste.

In Bruges: Day 4

Sunday, September 6th

Today, we hopped on a train from Brussels to Bruges for a quick overnight stay. It's a pretty easy trip (judging from online guides), just over an hour. Bruges is one of those cities that should not be missed when visiting Belgium (although Colin Farrell was less than amused to be In Bruges during the winter). From the limited exposure that I've had to the city through guidebooks and dark comedies, it seems as though it's going to live up to its reputation as the most perfectly preserved medieval town in western Europe.

Bruges developed from a 9th-century (NINTH century!) fortress by the first count of Flanders to defend the coast from the Vikings. By the 14th century, it too was booming with the cloth trade, converting English wool into fine textiles for worldwide export (or the parts of the world were known anyway). Through years of fighting and its inheritance by the Habsburg Empire (that favored Antwerp over Flanders) the cloth trade declined. As a result, Bruges failed to dredge the silted-up Zwin River in the 1500s, effectively shuttering the town and preserving it from both World Wars -- perhaps a blessing in disguise, because we get to see it in all of its glory today. The certainly don't make buildings like they used to, with a half-life of 350+ years.

Another blessing in disguise was this blog. For some reason as I was writing this entry, I decided to go and check out our hotel room on one of the travel review sites. The first entry started with, "Have you ever heard of scabies?" Five other reviews backed up this finding along with an alarming sewer smell in the shower. Seriously, folks, I did some hardcore research on where to stay and, despite my budget goals, was very choosy when selecting our rooms. This was a shock, but easily remedied before having to experience a raging case of bed bugs the third day abroad. Don't worry, Mom(s), we're at a different hotel with excellent ratings and vetted by Rick Steves.

In addition to the beautiful streetscapes (tiny mites) and canals, Bruges' museums hold some of the finest collections of early Flemish art. At the time of this blog post, rain was predicted for most of the day, so perhaps I'm dragging Jesse through galleries of 15th-century paintings instead of that planned bike ride along the canal. Our day's potential agenda includes:

Halve Maan Brewery: After a long history of opening, closing, and re-opening again, the Halve Maan Brewery (founded in 1856) is still run by descendants of the original owner, Henri Maes. In 2005, the brewery was renovated and revived with a new brew called Brugse Zot "Bruges Fool" and remains to date the only beer that is brewed in Bruges' town center. The visit includes a tour of the brewery followed by a tasting, which may include Brugse Zot (blond and dubbel), Staffe Hendrick, and Brugse Bok. Attached to the brewery is also a cafe where the chef prepares a daily menu to complement the beers. According to Tim Webb, we have to try the beer cheese soup.

The Groeninge Musem: While I was excited to visit the Musée d'Art Ancien in Brussels, the Groeninge Museum is the real deal. With only eleven rooms arranged in chronological order, it packs a punch, displaying works from Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden, Hieronymous Bosch, and Jan Provoost. I seriously can hardly wait to see some of these artists' works in person. It might even be a highlight of my day.

Bicycling along the canal to Damme: If the weather permits, we'll rent bicycles and ride along the tree-lined Brugge-Sluis canal that leads from Bruges to Damme (about 4.5 miles northeast). Damme is also a quaint village and once a main seaport during medieval times. It too dried up with the River Zwin, preserving it for our enjoyment today. Interesting fact? The 16th-century town hall (Stadhuis) was funded by a special tax on barrels of herring.

Enjoying cafe life: I think the most important part of the trip to Bruges is partaking in the rich cafe life in Belgium. I fully intend on having a couple of local beers to wash down whatever regional fare sounds best to me at the time.

Brussels: Days 2 & 3

Friday, Sept. 4th - Saturday, Sept. 5th

The "to-do" list here in Brussels is a bit ambitious, but the main goal is to have a variety of activities to keep us awake while we try to acclimate to the nine-hour time difference. In an ideal world, I will have slept all night on the flight from Dulles to Belgium and will be ready to start the day. However, realistic expectations indicate that we might walk around like zombies most of Friday, just waiting until we can collapse into bed. Our beds, by the way, will be plush and right in the heart of the Grand-Place. Apparently, weekends in Brussels are slow with the business crowd vacating, so a lot of the fancy-pants hotels put their rooms up at an insane discount (our normally €200/night room worked out to be €60/night for our stay). We will be able to step out the door of our hotel with Brussels at our fingertips:

The Grand-Place: is the heart of the Lower Town of Brussels and arguably one of the best places to begin exploring the city. Within the Grand-Place is the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) surrounded by seventeenth-century guildhouses. Historically, the area was marshland, which was drained in the twelfth century. By 1350 the area was a hopping marketplace, due in part to the economic boom spurred by a flourishing cloth industry. The area solidified as a place of economic power when the various guilds built their headquarters here. Unfortunately for Brussels, a French artillery bombardment pretty much leveled the town in 1695 and only two guildhouses and portions of the Hotel de Ville survived. After the attack, the guildsmen quickly rebuilt and what survives today is an awesome show of Baroque flamboyance.

11th Annual Belgian Beer Weekend: When we booked our trip to Belgium and Germany way back in March, I had no idea that it would coincide with a Belgian beer festival. This happy accident has us touching down in Brussels the very day that the festival begins. Literally right around the corner from our hotel will be hundreds of beers to sample. I haven't even bothered to count the number of breweries participating, the list is that insane.

Art Nouveau Walking Tour: Brussels is known for its Art Nouveau architecture and several neighborhoods are hot spots for soaking in all of the splendor. Potential stops include the Horta Museum (architect Victor Horta's former house and studio), strolling down rue Defacqz (not a typo) and avenue Louise, or the Cauchie House, which happens to be open only on the first weekend of each month! Another happy coincidence!

Cantillon Museum of Gueuze: The brewery is renown for producing amazing Gueuze beer, that consists of old and new lambics (sour beer) blended and bottled for a second spontaneous fermentation. The result is usually a very dry, tart (almost cidery) beer that in some guides has been associated with descriptors such as "chicory," "leathery," "barnyard-like," "horse blanket." Believe me, I've tasted several Gueuze that definitely are an acquired taste, but others have been quite pleasant and I'd gladly take them over the more mundane varieties of Belgian ales. Also, lambics are the base for kriek beer (fermented with cherries), which is probably on my top 3 list of favorite Belgian-style beverages.

Musée d'Art Ancien: has a great collection of early (15th through 18th century) Flemish artwork. Some of the most vivid images that I remember from my art history courses in college involve early Flemish painters, such as Hieronymus Bosch who painted fantastic (and somewhat futuristic and gory) murals illustrating religious and moral stories. He's like the Salvator Dali of 15th and 16th century Flanders. One of my favorites of his works (and probably his most well known) is the Garden of Earthly Delights triptych. I know this is supposed to be a vacation, but I feel it would be very sad to be in the same city with all of this great artwork and not stop in at least for a few minutes.

Leonidas Chocolates: I was told by a German family friend that Leonidas is the best chocolate money can buy. I was also instructed to try at least three different kinds. Judging from the online menu, I may have to try more than three. It's a good thing that we'll only be in Brussels for a short period of time!

Moules Frites (Mussels & Fries): As I've read, in Belgium, mussels are prepared in a variety of ways, but most commonly (and in my opinion, most deliciously) with fresh herbs and flavorful vegetables with a wine-based stock. According to one of my favorite beer guides, Good Beer Guide Belgium, "Belgian frites are better than British chips or American fries and, yes, myocardial masochists do coat them with commercial mayonnaise from a tin." (As a side note totally unrelated to Belgium or mussels, Tim Webb has a wicked sense of humor and made me want to actually read his guide book from cover to cover. I laughed aloud at his insight and snark.)